Crain's
European Narrow Gauge Circle Tour
Part 3 - Switzerland
Rocky Mountain House, Alberta, Canada, T4T
2A2
Phone/Fax: 403-845-2527 email us
Updated 10 Jan 2005 c.1998 - 2008 E. R. Crain, P.Eng. All Rights
Reserved
Introduction
to Switzerland
Railway Pages Index
This
photo essay covers an escorted tour I took in 1995 through Germany,
Austria, and Switzerland. My photos were lost in a house fire
but about 50% of the negatives survived. My brother Ian scanned
and cropped the useable film and here they are. The mix is about
equal parts real trains, large scale model trains, and scenic
images. I hope you enjoy the trip.
The
Swiss portion of the trip was the highlight in many ways. We rode
on a lot of trains and saw a lot of scenery. The Swiss National
Railway (SBB) is standard gauge (1435 mm).
Click here to see a
map of the Swiss rail network.
First
stop was in St Galen to ride the Appenzellbahn and visit the St
Galen LGB Club large scale outdoor railway. Many trains in Switzerland
operate almost like interurban streetcars. The Appenzellbahn is
one of them. It heads into pastoral farmland on a narrow right
of way, sometimes encroaching onto the equally narrow automobile
roads.
Swiss
train, bus, ferry, and even airplane schedules are highly integrated.
The bus is timed to meet the ferry which is timed to meet the
train - often with only a minute or so to spare. This clockwork
efficiency over-rides corporate and state boundaries, something
we could use a lot more of in North America.
The
St Galen LGB Club layout is a work of art and it's hard to tell
how many trains are running; there are quite a few. It rained
just a bit, so some trains would spin a bit on the grades, but
all performed extremely well. There are more than 1000 meters
(3300 feet) of track, all of it with automatic block signals and
station stops.
Next
stop was Chur, the headquarters for the Ratischebahn (RhB), and
our tour group for a few days. The city is the most ancient in
Switzerland, dating back at least 5000 years. Some of the cathedrals
are more than 500 years old. The library has documents written
by Irish scholar-monks dating back more than 1000 years!
Chur
to Arosa and return is a day trip with lots of time to wander
around town, shop, and view the lake. The trains are short groups
of modern self-propelled cars running on a narrow, sometimes steep,
right of way. Most passengers are tourists but the local citizenry
are also regular travelers.
Chur
to Tirano (in Italy) and return on the Bernina Express is a long
day trip. Leaving about 6 AM and arriving in Italy in time for
a short lunch (I chose spaghetti carbonara). The return leaves
at 1 PM for a 7:30 PM arrival in Chur. The scenery is breathtaking
and, frankly, more interesting than on the Glacier Express. The
circular viaduct at Brusio is an amazing structure. The Italian
language and architecture, once the train passes the summit of
the Alps, is a real surprise for the uninitiated.

This map shows the entire RhB portion of the Glacier Express as
well as better detail on the spiral tunnels and loops on the Bernina
Express between Filisur and Preda.
The
Glacier Express is actually a number of trains on a number of
routes. One route is from St Moritz to Disentes via the RhB, which
meets another Express from Chur. When merged, they head to Andermatt
on the Furka-Oberalpbahn, then to Brig and Zermatt on the Brig-Viss-Zermattbahn.
The latter two railways use rack locomotives and every second
car on the train must have rack braking systems. Locomotives change
at each change in railway ownership, and passenger cars are added
or deleted as necessary. Through coaches stay connected so you
hardly know anything is happening.

We
rode the Chur to Zermatt route in a first class observation car.
The "box-lunch" comes in a box all right, but contains
enough food and wine for several days. Scenery along the Rhine
is interesting and cannot be seen by car or bus. Once onto the
rack lines of the Alps, the scenery is a combination of spectacular
to barren. The Bernina route is prettier.
Zermatt
and the Matterhorn are beyond words - visualize your fondest dreams
of the classic Swiss chalet backed by the most sinister mountain
peak. A lot of people have died on the Matterhorn; the cemetery
is beside the main street. The only internal combustion engine
in Zermatt belongs to the garbage truck. All other vehicles are
electric and scarily quiet.
We
rode the Gornergratbahn closer to the Matterhorn, but it snowed
so we didn't see much of the mountain. This is a steep rack line
with one-way traffic.
No
buses reach Zermatt. You have to take the train back at least
one stop to the bus parking lot, where we departed for Lucerne
on our faithful German tour bus. In Lucerne, we visited the Swiss
Transportation Museum, cruised Lake Lucerne on the old steam powered
ship, and rode the Rigibahn from Vitznau to Goldau.
After
a farewell dinner with the tour group, we were bused to Zurich
where the group boarded for home. I then spent a week in Schafhausen
with friends, viewed the Rhine Falls, floated down the Rhine for
a sumptuous lunch, toured the towns, countryside, monasteries,
and coffee shops. Finally, I trained it back to Frankfurt via
SBB and a DR ICE with only one train change at Munich.
As
a souvenir of my trip, I purchased 3 Swiss railway prints and
framed them for my living room. You can see more of
Gerald Savine's
paintings here.

Landwasser
Viaduct |
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Narrow
Gauge Steam |

Paddle
Wheeler |
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Galen LGB Club Layout |
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I
took a full roll of film here. These are the best. |
Train
Watching at Chur
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Variety
is the spice of train watching. |
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The
Bernina Expressq |
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My
Bernina photos were lost, so here are some good ones from
the web. |
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The
Glacier Express |
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Train
watching from the Panoramic Observation Car.
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Views
in Zermatt |
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Hotels,
Matterhorn, Cemetery, and electric cars. |
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Lucerne
and the Lake |
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Misty
day around Lake Lucerne. |
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Rigibahn
and Goldau |
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Travel
down Lake Lucerne by steamship, take a slow trip up the
Rigi by rack and rail, and return by a local train from
Goldau - a classic day trip in the heart of Switzerland.
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| Swiss
Transportation Museum |
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I
could have spent a week at the Museum - thousands of preserved
full size and working models.
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Schaffhausen
and the Rhine |
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Schaffhausen
and Rhine River scenes were a fitting finale to a fabulous
trip. Special thanks to Lise and Rene, my gracious hosts
for the week. |
Return
to Railway Pages Index
A
Few Pertinent Links
Mountain
Railways
Bernina
Express
Glacier Express
RhB_1 or RhB_2
FO and BVZ
SBB
Zermatt
Chur
Lucerne
Rigibahn
Swiss Transportation
Museum
Schaffhausen
ABOUT
THE AUTHOR E.
R. (Ross) Crain, P.Eng. is a Consulting Petrophysicist and a Professional
Engineer with over 40 years of experience in reservoir description,
petrophysical analysis, and management. He has been a specialist
in the integration of well log analysis and petrophysics with
geophysical, geological, engineering, and simulation phases of
oil and gas exploration and exploitation, with widespread Canadian
and Overseas experience.
"I
am a life-long model railroader and have modeled in O27, HO, HOn3,
and N Scales. Failing eyesight brought me to G Scale. My father
started me in model railroading as a tiny tot in 1944 - he scratch
built his first locomotive in 1940, the year I was born, and I
still have this loco on my mantle-piece. I am a Life Member (#517)
of NMRA, a member of the Rocky Mountain Garden Railroaders (Calgary,
Alberta), and have toured a lot of model railways, railway shows,
and garden railways. I have never seen a model railway I didn’t
like. An extensive library of railway magazines and books, covering
topics that appeal to me, sit behind my office desk, ready to
be put to use at a moments notice. I hope these pages can communicate
to you some of my accumulated experience, my successes and failures,
and my love of model railways."
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